Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Last Call~!!!


I realize that most of you have made your decision some time ago, but Ale and a friend made up this formal invite with updated information, so I'm passing it on. (Click to enlarge) We have already welcomed a few late additions to the festivities, so don't hesitate to join us if your schedule and budget allow.





Monday, August 4, 2008

Guess who is getting married!


That’s right. Miguelito and his Mexican flower, Alejandra, after a year of bliss, living in sin, are going to tie the matrimonial knot. This will take place on November 28th 2008, on the beautiful Caribbean beaches of Tulum Mexico. (See my “Thanksgiving in the Yucatan” blog for details on this vacation spot.) Consider yourself both informed and invited.

Anyone who knows Miguelito knows how much I love Ale and how happy I am sharing my life with her. And anyone who knows Ale knows what a smart, funny and interesting person she is. Recently a friend told me he was thinking of dumping his girlfriend because he knew something was wrong when he realized he could speak all night without effort to my girlfriend, but had to struggle to maintain a decent conversation with his own. Ale has a bright and bubbly personality that is naturally attractive to people. And I certainly cannot resist the fact that she finds most of my irreverent humor, silly antics and odd ways humorous (or at least tolerable). I am lucky to have found her.

Since both of us are veterans of relatively expensive weddings, and have recently spent every dime we have in our savings on our new apartment, we are opting for a very, very simple wedding ceremony and dinner in which we are paying only for ourselves. We are going to stand with a judge on the beach at the Nueva Vida cabana hotel (or in their restaurant, if it is raining) and say our “forever-mores" (well, at least our “until-deaths,” eternity seems a little extreme). Afterwards, we are heading to The Mezzanine, a fine dining establishment a mile down the beach for dinner. After dinner, we’ll have some drinks and dance at their Friday night dance party. That is our plan. It is simple and true. Anyone who would like to be there is welcome to join us.

Of course, we are not just flying out there to stand on the beach for one day. On the days before and after the wedding ceremony, we’ll do some fun things like lie on the beach and swim in the crystal clear waters, visit the nearby Mayan Ruins, swim in the underground cenotes, explore the nearby nature reserve, or head up the coast an hour to Playa del Carmen and/or Cozumel for shopping or scuba. So, even if you think attending a wedding in Mexico at which you’ll have to pay your own way for dinner is a bit expensive, you could also think of it as an excuse to take a Caribbean vacation for yourselves during Thanksgiving as well. And if you cannot get away that weekend to Tulum, that is fine with us too. We’ll accept your well wishes and hope to see you some other time in Mexico City.

For anyone who is considering the journey, I should alert you that Tulum is a very nice and popular beach spot that is likely to have the good and reasonable cabanas booked early for Thanksgiving weekend. We were lucky to get ours for the week, Monday-Sunday, and we took care of it in July. It was the last available beach front cabana at this hotel in our price range. I’m including below a variety of links for anyone who wants to explore their options. Feel free to ask me any questions you have. (I have spent hours conducting research and have also visited this place.) Please let us know asap if you are thinking/planning on joining us. We want to get the restaurant approximate reservation numbers and also try to plan out our week based on who is going to be there.
Alright, well...this is going to be sweet!
PS.--I've recently added some new features to my actual blog site that you may want to check out: www.miguelitoinmexico@blogspot.com


Cabana/Hotel Information for Tulum Mexico

We are staying at the hotel La Nueva Vida de Ramiro. It is one of the highest rated places on the strip. We reserved a junior suite on the beach for $157 a night. They have several more bungalows and suites too. Prices from $80-150. You can see pictures on the web. I’ll attach a list of descriptions of each as well.

http://www.tulumnv.com/ Nueva Vida website, lots of photos.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/LocationPhotos-g150813-d1013669-La_Nueva_Vida_de_Ramiro-Tulum_Yucatan_Peninsula.html Tons of photos from travelers at NV on tripadvisor.com

http://www.tulumnv.com/locationmap.html Aerial photo of NV with cabana identification. We are in cabana #1, "Horizonte Perdido"

Place where we plan to have the wedding dinner, really nice with good Thai food!
http://www.mezzanine.com.mx/

It would be cool if we could stay in the same place, but if it’s full (the good ones like this are booked up well in advance) or you want other options, here’s some help:

Map of the cabana strip with cabanas identified (some are new and not on here)
http://www.sac-be.com/maps_travel.shtml (click on “Tulum” next to the map). This will help you see how far or near you are to us at Nueva Vida.

Trip Advisor site for reviews of cabanas, also can see pictures travelers took—this site is invaluable! Just search the name of the beach hotel you want.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotels-g150813-Tulum_Yucatan_Peninsula-Hotels.html

Good site for descriptions and info of many Tulum beach cabanas and Tulum in general:
http://www.tulumnv.com/locationmap.html

Other cabana places in the same price range: $80-150 (We seriously considered these.)
http://www.tulum-playa.com/
http://www.posadalamar.com/
http://www.titatulum.com/

Other very nice places, a step up in price: $150-225
http://www.ochotulum.com/rooms/partial-ocean-view.html
http://www.tierrasdelsol.com/cabanasx.html
http://www.loslirioshotel.com/
http://www.lazebratulum.com/home.html
http://www.locogringo.com/tulum/hemingway.html?name=Hemingway%20Cabanas
http://www.posadamargherita.com/index.php?lang=en


Off the charts in luxury and price, but worth a peek just for fun:
http://www.casamagnatulum.com/
http://www.anayjose.com/

Cheaper (but very nice) hotels, not on the Beach strip but in the nearby (5-10 minutes) town of Tulum: $50-85 (You could get a 50 dollar cabana on the beach, but it will basically be camping.)
http://posadalunadelsur.googlepages.com/
http://www.teetotumhotel.com/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g150813-d578621-Reviews-Don_Diego_de_la_Selva-Tulum_Yucatan_Peninsula.html

Sunday, July 27, 2008

New Year's in Acapulco

Ale and I spent Christmas ‘07 in New Jersey, Philly and Maryland. Though it was nice to see people and introduce her to some extended family, I must admit that I did not enjoy being there during this gray, cold season. You like winter? Fine, you keep it. As soon as we returned home to Mexico City, I put on my shorts and walked around outside just because I could. Then, I began preparing for Phase II of our vacation: New Year’s Eve in Acapulco!

Acapulco is one of the most famous and popular Mexican resorts, along with Puerta Vallarta, and Cancun. It is also one of the oldest, beginning its development in the 1930’s and growing ever since. Plainly put, Acapulco is as far from the pure, deserted beaches of Tulum as you can get. If Tulum is Island Beach State Park in New Jersey, Acapulco is Ocean City Maryland. The city is built around a shallow bay that begins with an opening through a small straight and then continues around until it almost forms a complete circle. Apart from this circular shape, much of the surrounding land rises quickly from the beaches into mountainous hills that look down on the bay. (This explains the famous cliff diving competitions here I used to see on ABC's Wild World of Sports.) Geographically speaking, it is an amazing natural location. It’s also a cool place to view at night from the surrounding hills, which are illuminated by the lights of the city. Unfortunately, it is the surrounding city that makes Acapulco's beaches unattractive. The entire stretch of beach around the main bay has been totally and completely developed. Besides being extremely crowded, the city and hotels have been dumping raw sewage into this bay for years, at the rate of something like eight hundred gallons PER SECOND. This may sound hard to believe, but I know this because I read an article in the paper saying the president of Mexico was taking a personal interest in seeing through the construction of several waste filtration plants that would address the immense sewage problems. The presence of so many people also causes the beaches to be quite littered with garbage. I remember as a kid in Ocean City when the giant sand cleaning machines would interrupt our beach play when they came by to clean the garbage off the beach at the end of each day. That’s what you call a smart use of tax revenues to help keep the tourists coming back. Yeah…they don’t have that here in Mexico. It’s one of those things that would make too much sense.

Consequently, less developed areas north and south of the Acapulco proper have become popular with vacationers, especially those from Mexico City which is only a few hours away. Luckily for me, Ale’s friend Sonia married a this guy Enrique who owns a nice condo in Punta Diamante, one of these newer beach towns about fifteen minutes south of Acapulco City. Ale and I visited it with friends from ASF not long after we met. The condo is located in a gated community; it is small and simple, but very nice, with a pool right off the back door. From the condo, a three minute car ride or ten minute walk through a hotel golf course will get you onto the beach, which is considerably less crowded and cleaner than those in down town Acapulco. Upon arriving, you are immediately assaulted by those working the various cabana areas on the beach competing for your business, where you can get a shaded area with chairs and a small table, and service for food and drink. After settling into your chosen spot, you can relax and enjoy the surf and sand. Granted, while there you will be asked to buy every kind of trinket imaginable by vendors traversing the beach, but a brief head shake will send them on their way. While trinkets are of little interest to me, during my first visit there I did take up the offer for a half an hour massage for less than ten dollars.

For our New Year’s trip, Ale and I arrived at three in the morning on the night bus. It is possible to drive to Acapulco in four hours or so, but if there is traffic in or out of the city, it can take 5-8 hours. The first time we went, I drove, and it took us and extra two hours just to get to the city limits and onto the highway. So this time, we opted for a relaxing ride on the bus. (It was on this bus ride that I began my first blog about our trip to the Yucatan.) The house is only a few blocks from the house, so Ale suggested we walk. So, walk we did, suitcases in tow, down the side of the highway in the middle of the night. About half way there, I began to feel a little like an easy target for potential bad actors, but we managed to survive. The next day we enjoyed the sun by the pool. As we were heading inside for dinner we struck up a conversation with a guy in the condo next door, an American who had married a smokin’ Mexican chick and was spending the vacation with her family. Later that night we met them at the “B Bar” right outside the condo complex, and proceeded to get well lit up. The next day, New Year’s Eve, Ale and I hit the beach, where met up with friends my ASF friend Matt and his Mexican boyfriend Fernando. We chilled out under the little thatched huts while we made New Year’s eve dinner plans via cell phone with Sonia and Enrique who were en route to meet us. Waiting to make reservations until the last minute left us with few options, especially since we were hoping for a classy restaurant on the mountain tops overlooking the Acapulco Bay. Luckily, a cancelation came through and we were able to snag a table at a really sweet place. It was a set menu with unlimited drinks for 200 bucks a person (or thereabouts), but we decided to go for it since it was a special night. Also I was assured the fireworks from this vantage point were not to be missed. I was not disappointed.

Did I say, “unlimited drinks?” Well, other than Sonia who was pregnant, the rest of us hit the bar running and ran all night, determined to get our money’s worth. We started with cocktails and beers before and during meal, which was a multi-coursed delight that lasted about an hour. About the time the meal ended, it was time for the declarations of “HAPPY NEW YEAR!!” and the fireworks that immediately followed. We began viewing them through the glass wall in the restaurant and then moved to the deck outside. I cannot emphasize enough how impressive they were. We were looking down from mountains on the south side, watching fireworks from what must have been fifteen or more full blown launch sites from around the bay. Any one of these, individually, would have been an impressive Fourth of July display. The entire sky over the city was bursting with colors in every direction. And it must have lasted fifteen minutes straight. It was truly worth the price of the admission and something I think everyone should see at least once. When the pyrotechnics ended, we headed back inside to boogie the night away. There was no dance floor per se, but we had a blast dancing in a variety of couple-combinations. It was at this point that we moved from lighter drinks to many shots of various flavors. At one point, Enrique and I got into a one-upsmanship battle with shots of Jack, which of course I won. I think he finally begged off at round five. (I knew my Jack drinking skills would come in handy one day!) Afterwards, Sonia, Enrique, Ale and I headed back to the condo where we found the neighbors from the night before still up and at it. So we joined them for some more partying and hit the sack just as the sun was coming up.

The next day we were blown out, as you can imagine, so we spent most of the day watching the first season of The Sopranos. (I had bought all six seasons on the street near my house for 500 pesos, or less than fifty dollars.) After recovering all day we had one more night out left in us. We up with Matt and Fernando again, as well as another friend Shawna from ASF and a friend of hers visiting from Canada. We met at Senor Frog’s, a Joe's Crab Shack type fun-and-food chain popular in Mexico. Shawna had laid relatively low since arriving in Acapulco and was hell bent for wildness. She got us all going by ordering four or five rounds of shots before she began dancing with the waiters and up on her chair. Afterwards, Enrique and Sonia went home early while the rest of us headed to a gay bar for some dancing. As is often the case with gay bars, it was a on the dark and seedy side. So dark in fact, that I did not initially notice when a naked man “dancing” on the bar, sporting only cowboy boots, a cock ring and giant boner, bent down to put his junk in my face and ask me if I wanted to touch it. Now, don’t get me wrong. I’m not afraid of the penis. Trust me. I’ve got one myself and I’m very found of touching it. But, no, I was not interested in touching the swollen dick of this stranger while I enjoyed my beverage. Still, Ale and I got a kick out of the novelty of this “dancing” on the bar before heading out to the dance floor. As usual, the music and energy of the gay club delivered, and we danced ourselves into a healthy sweat over the next hour or so. Shawna was interested in a bar with more “available” men, so she spilt early. Her friend, also gay, stuck around and was last seen in the corner of the bar, kissing the mustached motorcycle man from the Village People.

We chilled out on the partying for the rest of the week; eating, watching the Sopranos and hitting both the beach and pool again before heading home to the real world a couple of days later. Once again, it was another unforgettable vacation in Mexico!

Photo Note: Enrique (right) and Fernando busting some old school moves on New Year’s Eve.

Related photos of this blog can be viewed at:



Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Spring Break in Puerto Escondido

Spring break was fast approaching. Where would we go? After all, we had almost two weeks off at ASF and we live in Mexico, the land of gringo vacations. We had taken that awesome trip to the Yucatan over Thanksgiving. And there was that crazy New Year's Eve in Acapulco. There had to be some cool trip to take for this upcoming vacation. But what? I had kicked some ideas around with Ale and Will, but nothing definitive had come together. Tick, tick, tick…

With about two weeks to go, Will and I sat on the couch discussing the situation. Someplace new (to us), someplace mellow, someplace warm, someplace ocean side, these were the requirements. Finally, we settled on the idea of Puerto Escondido, a little surf town on the southern Pacific coast of Mexico, in the state of Oaxaca. Ale had been there once before and confirmed that it was worth a visit. So we hopped on the computer and started searching Vacation Rentals By Owner Dot Com (vrbo.com). The first house that came up on our search was awesome: pool, three levels, barbecue, hammocks, rooftop patio, sleeps fourteen. Jeez, it was nice but we didn’t need anything that size or expense. So we moved on. Unfortunately, everything else we were looking at was already booked for Easter Week. As we went through the (un)availability of each rental in succession, our hearts were quickly dropping. Finally, there was only one rental left to check, the giant place we had looked at first. It was available, and after further investigation, would cost only $2000 for 10 days. Since there was going to be a group of us this worked out to be a fraction of the cost per person of a hotel room most anywhere, and certainly much less than renting a beach house of similar proportions at the Jersey Shore. Sweet!

Puerto Escondido was first known to outsiders for having a long stretch of beach, Playa Zicatella in which large waves break perfectly much of the time. The waves there break in huge empty circles, causing a tunnel or pipe-like effect in which surfers can literally surf through. Because of this it is called, “the Mexican Pipeline,” after the world famous “Pipeline” beach in Hawaii. Consequently, Playa Zicatella has become increasingly developed and the strip parallel to the beach resembles a boardwalk, replete with shops, restuarants, young people and crowded beaches. The main part of town surrounds the principal cove, or “Playa Principal.” It is cobblestoned, with a pedestrian only area, and is also full of shops, restaurants and bars. The bay is dotted with a variety of types of sailboats. Up the coast a bit, is a small, gorgeous, secluded cove, “Playa Carrizalilla,” surrounded on three sides by steep, rocky cliffs. In order to enjoy this natural spectacle, you need to walk down hundreds (thousands?) of steps. It’s a bit of work (especially going back up) but well worth it. Another primary beach is a stretch north of the town, Playa Bocacho, which is long, natural and practically deserted. It reminded me of Long Island State Park in New Jersey, consisting simply of surf, sand and dunes. One good thing about all of the beaches is that you can order food and drink from the little stands nearby. Many of our days were filled with ice cold beers and sautéed octopus, served right on the beach. (Ah, the life!) Overall, Puerto Escondido generally remains a sleepy Mexican jewel. However, there are signs everywhere that the increasing development will soon change the essence of Puerto Escondido forever. As Don Henley sings in the Last Reprise, “Call someplace paradise, kiss it goodbye.” I advise you to get there before it becomes another Acapulco.

After we contacted the owners from VRBO, we shared the information about our Puerto house with our friends at work. Most folks more on the ball than us had already made their plans. Still, we ended up with a core crew of quality people: Walter, Tania, Tim, Sandy, Will, Ale and me. We got off to a rough start when there were some issues wiring the money to the owners in Puerto Escondido. Luckily, my buddy Nik was already there, after having visited me for a week in the DF, and he assisted with getting the house secured. After that was all straightened out, we had more unexpected trouble. Sandy had the misfortune of attempting to exit a bus while it was being robbed, resulting in her being sprawled out on the concrete with a broken arm. To her dismay and ours, she would not be able to make the trip. Still, we decided to carry on with the vacation in her name. Someone had to...

Will, Ale and I flew down together. Nothing beats the feeling of getting off of a plane and getting smacked in the face a wave of tropical sun and breeze. Even though the weather in Mexico City is a delight, it’s a 75 degree delight. Now it was time for some serious tropical heat. We rented a car and drove a few hours north up the scenic coast from Huatulco. The house was just as advertised: huge and colorful, with a pool and all the amenities, including boogie boards, snorkel gear and bicycles. It was located just blocks from the ocean in a suburban neighborhood north of Puerto Escondido proper. Many of the houses were fantastic retirement/vacation homes built by gringos. Each of these houses had its own original style and personality. Even thought the neighborhood is said to be 20 years old, there are still many vacant lots among the beautiful houses there. (For anyone looking to invest here, the time to buy is NOW!) After Tim, Walter and Tania joined us the next day, the first order of business was going shopping and filling the fridge and cabinets with food and drink. After that, well honestly, we didn’t do a whole lot of anything significant.

For the next ten days we had a totally awesome time. It was not the whirlwind of activity of our Thanksgiving vacation in the Yucatan. Mostly, we swam in the pool, played cards, hit the beaches, laid in the hammocks, read, ate, drank, and walked around the sleepy little town. In the pool, we played some Marco Polo type game Will taught us, conducted handstand-walking contests and chilled on the raft. Mike jogged in the mornings and Walter biked in the evenings. Tim took everyone’s money in Texas hold ‘em. Ale worked on her tan. Tania cooked some fantastic meals. At the local bars/discos, Will made out with questionable looking girls and Walter tried to dance with lesbians. (He almost got his assed kicked!) Mike turned 42 whether he liked it or not. Everyone read books and watched two full seasons of Arrested Development. (A must see series if you haven’t seen it.) It was a lazy, sunny, refreshing respite from the hustle and bustle of Mexico City.

One thing I kept thinking while I was there was, “I wish some of my family and friends back home could have been here too.” I’m sure everyone in the house was thinking the same thing. Hopefully, next time, we can make that happen.

Photo note: Will chillin' in the hammock on the roof of our Puerto Pad.

Reminder: You can read this amazing blog, as well as past blogs, in a snazzier format, and post and read comments at: miguelitoinmexico.blogspot.com. You can also view related pictures of this blog at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/miguelito2066/show/

Friday, July 18, 2008

Helping Out

I have written in previous blogs about the great disparity of wealth between the rich and poor in Mexico. Many of the families that send their kids to the American School Foundation where I work are immensely wealthy. Mexico City is filled with luxury cars, beautiful buildings, and expensive restaurants. It is also filled with many poor people, readily seen begging on the streets. The first time you see an old woman lying on the pavement with her knotted hands held out in solicitation, it’s quite a shock. You want to stop and shout, “Hey, shouldn’t someone come help this poor woman?” But after a while, it becomes normal to you, part of the landscape. And later, when you see a woman begging on the pavement with two babies in her lap, you start to say, “Hey, shouldn’t you stop having babies if you can’t feed them?” (No help from the Catholic Church on this one.) That reaction to a poor mother probably sounds harsh, but the reality is that if you gave money to every person who asked for it on the street you would never arrive home with any money in your pocket. It’s not my fault these people are poor. Poverty is part of the system here. It’s part of the culture. It is rooted in a long history of oppression and exploitation that began with the Spanish conquest of the Americas over 500 years ago. It is bigger than what any one person can fix.

At ASF, like many schools in the U.S., there are graduation service requirements. Consequently, there are many programs at the school in which students can participate. Many of them deal with helping the poor of Mexico. Though the “volunteerism” is mandatory, the students seem to genuinely embrace it. One such ASF service program offers students the chance to participate in local Habitat for Humanity projects. Despite the slight religious component of this charity, I have always appreciated the practical and effective work of the organization. I mean, they build houses for poor people who would otherwise not be able to own one. That’s just flat out awesome. The coordinating teachers for the Habitat service club last year were awesome too, my good friends Pete and Cyndi. They are two really special people and I was very sad to see them leave the school at the end of the year.

Last fall, I decided to join them one Saturday on a Habitat trip. The construction site near Texcoco, located in the state of Mexico. Though it lies just outside of the Federal District, is still part of the ever expanding “Greater Mexico City Metropolitan Area,” which has spilled across the borders of the DF and into surrounding states. This area is also the site of a HUGE garbage dump. Many of the poor there actually make there living sifting through the garbage. It is the site where the government wanted to build a new international airport for Mexico City. The current airport, Benito Juarez International, is the biggest and busiest airport in Latin America. Still, it is not big enough. A couple of years ago, the fedearal government proposed they build a new super large airport out near Texcoco. This would have brought related development and many jobs, but remarkably the local poor protested. I’m not sure what their complaints were, but I heard they rode into the center of the Mexico City on horseback, waving their machetes in protest. That’s a little more threatening than a protest I saw here on my first visit to the DF a few years ago—a bunch of farmers protested by lining up by the hundreds in the nude, or with their pants pulled down, so that they were all mooning the passing traffic. At any rate, the new airport plan was scrapped and instead a new, not so big terminal was built at the existing airport. And the area around Texcoco? It still has an enormous garbage dump surrounded by terribly poor people. Go figure.

The day I went on the Habitat trip, we put a roof on a house for an old man. The night before I told Pete and Cyndi I had built houses in my youth and possessed various construction skills. I asked if I should bring a hammer or a tape measurer. Ha! It was a silly question, as I forgot to remember that most everything built in Mexico is built with cement. That’s right, a big flat cement roof hanging right over your head. They simply put a corrugated piece of metal on the roof and fill it with about eight inches of cement. Consequently, there was no need for measuring, cutting or hammering. There was, however, a real need for carrying lots and lots and lots of buckets of cement across a yard and up a ramp onto a roof. So that is what we spent a good part of the day doing.

The kids threw themselves into the work with wild abandon, giving many of the locals a much needed break. (Part of Habitat for Humanity’s deal with the owners is that they must participate in the construction of their houses.) At first some of the men were reluctant to allow the girls to get involved so directly in such difficult and dirty work, but our girls would not be denied! The houses being built are very small and very simple, but when you look at the shanty shacks in the surrounding area that previously passed as housing, you know that what you are doing is a real life changer for these people. And it’s aslo a life changer for the kids too, some of which I think are seeing their fellow Mexicans with new eyes. Seeing random poor people begging in a city full of wealth is one thing, but seeing masses of people living in a landscape of economic devastation is something else for sure. And they don’t just look at these people from afar like they do in the DF. They get to really meet them and talk with them face to face, working, laughing, having lunch, side by side. I can only hope that these students—some of them surely to become major movers and shakers in Mexico’s future—will keep their ASF Habitat experiences in their hearts.

I really enjoyed the day on the Habitat project, so when Pete and Cyndi asked me to cover for them on another trip, I readily agreed. It was not a day without its problems. There was some miscommunication about connecting with our Habitat representative. She changed the details of our meeting, and then was late connecting at the new rendezvous. We eventually made our way to the same construction site near Texcoco, but this time there was not much work to be done. Essentially, we helped some women move some gravel and rocks around to prepare for the pouring of some porches. We also dug a couple of holes, though I cannot say I remember for what purpose. I suppose it was all work that needed to be done, but it did not feel much like building a house. When I shared my experiences with Pete and Cyndi they were not surprised. It appears the local Mexican coordinators of Habitat for Humanity do not have their acts entirely together. It’s a real shame because the kids are truly eager to work. If they could plan things a little better, I am sure these ASF kids could build a lot of houses. But, alas, this is Mexico.

I was asked if I wanted to be the coordinator for ASF Habitat for Humanity next year. I have not committed to do so as of this moment, but as I reflect upon my experiences writing this blog, I think I will take them up on the offer. I cannot personally solve all the problems of poverty in Mexico, but I can do my part.

Photo note: ASF rich brats busting their asses to help their less fortunate compatriots.

You can also view related pictures of extreme poverty and the Habitat Housing related to this blog at:

How safe is it down there?


Well, Mom, perhaps this is one blog you shouldn’t read...

There are, in fact, some serious issues with safety and security in Mexico. When doing my research before coming down here, I read some frightening reports from the U.S. State Department and various travel guides warning of robberies, kidnappings and murders in Mexico. I don’t normally scare easily, but it freaked me out a bit. Luckily, most of the violent crime here is related to the drug traffic in the states outside the Distrito Federal, and most of the worst case scenarios are related to that specific situation. When President Felipe Calderon launched a frontal assault on the country’s drug cartels a year and a half ago, he made drug interdiction a priority. He sent 30 thousand army troops to the worst areas. As a result, the number of drug war related assaults, kidnappings and murders has skyrocketed. But even after acknowledging the impact of the drug wars, it is also true there are other sources of crime in Mexico. I must confess that I know regular people here who have been mugged, robbed, car jacked, assaulted and kidnapped. (I have yet to meet anyone who was murdered.) On the face of it, I realize that probably sounds pretty bad.

On the other hand, everything is relative. A very quick internet search conducted on “the most dangerous countries in the world” did not yield for me a list which included Mexico (though one did feature the United States). Jamaica, Zimbabwe, Venezuela, Iraq, Russia, South Africa, Somalia, Haiti, Indonesia, Israel, etc. came up again and again, but not my beloved Mexico. And none of these lists were exactly the same. I imagine the list you get depends on how you phrase the question and how the list makers decided to crunch the numbers, not to mention the questions of who is crunching the numbers and for what purpose. For instance, are we talking about drug interdiction and/or civil war related crime? Do the statistics refer only to the sort of average crime that happens to regular citizens? Are we mixing combat fatalities with run of the mill homicides? The answers to these questions will likely give you the variations in lists I found. Obviously, countries with civil wars and violent insurgencies are very dangerous, but how valuable are these figures for inclusion in a serious discussion about crimes against tourists in non-combat zones? And though most of you probably do not consider the United States a particularly “dangerous” country, I think we would all readily agree there are places in Trenton, Camden, Newark, Brooklyn, Detroit, L.A., New Orleans, Dallas, Oakland, Washington DC, Atlanta, New Orleans, etc. that anyone in their right mind should steer clear. And major cities are not the only places homicides happen in America. I know a lot of small-town Americans are being murdered because I see the cases being solved on reality crime shows like, Cold Case Files, Forensic Files, FBI Files, The First 48, etc.

So, is Mexico a safe place to visit and/or live? Is it more or less dangerous than living in the United States? Allow me to discuss several related topics and let you decide.

The drug war in Mexico...it’s bad. Really bad. The kind of bad that would make Americans flip-out if it was happening in their country. In the first six months of the year, 3,500 people have been killed in the drug war. That’s a record pace compared to last year. The killings generally take place in the Mexican states where drugs are imported, produced, refined and/or exported to the United States. (There are 32 states in the “Estados Unidos Mexicanos.” Yes, the official name of this country is the United States of Mexico!) The northern border is the worst. There are places up there where law and order exist only as a pleasant concept. I read recently that some cartel thugs came into a town and started a huge shootout throughout the downtown area, killing several police officers, including the chief, as well as innocent bystanders. The next day the entire police force resigned. You can’t really blame them. Cops in Mexico are found dead on a daily basis.

And not just any cops, high ranking officers like the heads of the state police. This spring, the national head of the anti-drug division was assassinated. The next day, the head of the national anti-kidnapping unit was executed. And cops aren’t just any kind of “found dead.” I have read several stories about cops being found beheaded in the back of a car and seen footage of the charred bodies of dead police being found on the side of the road. Often times, the bodies display signs of torture. I can’t believe anyone is actually still signing up to join the police anymore; except, of course, for the fact that there is tremendous money to be made aiding and abetting drug traffickers. (Police in Mexico are notoriously underpaid, particularly the local police who make close to the minimum wage.) In the old days, perhaps, it was a pretty good gig because you took your bribes while there was no real expectation to do much law enforcement. But now, Calderon is actually attempting to seriously reduce this illicit trade. The shake up seems to have disrupted much of the established “order.” As some cartels are weakened by the government’s efforts, others are emboldened to take over new territory, resulting in inter-cartel violence that resembles an all out war. This is Bloods vs. Crips fighting over an inner city corner, magnified to the nth degree. Sometimes the cops are not killed for enforcing anti-drug laws, they are assassinated in order to punish them (and warn others) not to do business with the competing cartels.

To give you an idea of what it is like let me give a few more examples. A few months ago, I read in the paper that the Zetas, a paramilitary mercenary hit squad associated with drug cartels, were placing banners on freeway overpasses. The banners were recruitment posters, asking military and former military members to come and work for them. The banners brazenly boasted of “better pay and a more competitive package” than what the government offered. In nearby Guatemala, cartels managed to run recruitment spots on the radio. Can you imagine hearing such an ad on WMMR in Philadelphia?!

Now before you go shaking your head and saying, “Boy, is Mexico screwed up!” keep in mind that all this violence and suffering is a result of the desire on the part of Americans to do drugs. Yup, all those regular (mostly white) Americans who enjoy a little recreational puff or snort or pill are actually the primary cause of all this mayhem in Mexico. I am absolutely certain that if a Mexican demand for drugs was creating the same level of violence, death and instability in the United States, the U.S. would intervene militarily. But, because Mexico does not have that sort of military power, they are forced to suffer. Sure, there are drugs in Mexico, but the U.S. demand dwarfs what the average Mexicans can afford to buy.

It’s similar to the organized crime violence and police corruption that occurred during Prohibition in the U.S. People wanted to get a buzz drinking alcohol and making it illegal was not going to stop them. Plenty of unscrupulous and violent characters were willing to do whatever it took to get the drug (alcohol) to the masses who wanted it. Plenty of police and politicians were corrupted by the money paid to look the other way. When they repealed the 18th amendment prohibiting alcohol, all the related crime stopped. I can’t help thinking that legalizing illicit drugs would be the lesser of two evils in the same regard.

It’s a pretty simple equation: No high demand, no high profits. No high profits, no willingness to kidnap, torture and kill to preserve your business. Sure the drug-related violence in Mexico is grotesque, but it is directly caused by the exorbitant demand for drugs north of the border. Mexicans must think, “We gave you tacos and you give us death and mayhem? Thanks America!”

OK, the violence related to the drug war is pretty significant, but what about the rest of Mexico? If I stay away from drug war areas, stay away from drug trafficking and drug interdiction, is it safe then? Well, it depends. If you live out in the countryside and are poor you don’t really have anything of value, so I think you are generally left alone. (Though I think poor women in these areas regularly suffer abuses that we would consider criminal.) Or, if you are middle class in the towns and cities of provincia, things are relatively safe as well. If you are wealthy—and there are some very wealthy people here—then you have likely surrounded yourself with a variety of protections that help to keep you safe. You may be “safe,” but the reality is you also live your life under guard as a constant target. I encounter these rich “targets” at my school on a daily basis. In the mornings and afternoons, the front of ASF looks like an SUV car show. The biggest and baddest SUVs on the market are lined up with tinted windows, driven by dark sunglasses laden chauffeurs/body guards.

One day, as I ate my delicious burrito for lunch at the stand in front of the school, I saw a woman pull up in the sportiest Mercedes I had ever seen. As she came to a stop, the doors of the car behind her opened and two men in suits and sunglasses jumped out and began running toward her car. At first, I imagined I was watching some sort of assault taking place. I soon realized it was just the opposite. This was her personal security entourage. One man stayed in the car behind, another helped her from her car then took possession of the Mercedes, and the third—hand on openly displayed holstered gun—walked her into the school gates. I have no idea who it was, but it was someone who obviously does not go anywhere without having a car full of armed men follow her every move. I am sure she lives in a large beautiful place surrounded by high walls, elaborate security systems, armed guards and barbed wire. I suppose that’s one way to live.

You do not have to be super rich to need security around your house. All houses in Mexico City (and much of Mexico) have bars on the first floor windows, and often the second and third. All the roofs have razor or barbed wire separating the buildings, except the poor who put broken bottles and glass up on top of their walls instead. If you leave yourself unprotected, you are likely to get robbed. I saw an interesting documentary at the Film Festival in Morelia last year called Los Ladrones Viejos, “The Old Thieves.” In it, famous old thieves (all growing old in Mexican jails) reminisced about the glory days of the 70’s and 80’s when robbery was an art form and done only to take from the rich and give to the poor. Throughout the movie they emphasized their credo of non-violence. They said they would never enter a house they believed was occupied, and never used violence to earn their living. They disparaged the new thieves of today who use guns and violence as part of their trade. Oh, the good old days…

It is no doubt the poverty of the Mexican masses contributes greatly to the crimes of street muggings, pick-pocketing, burglaries and car/taxi jackings that are still an unfortunate part of life in Mexico City, and other large state capitals. I know several teachers who were approached by muggers on their way to the subway station from our school. Thankfully, only one ended up having to hand over money. One, a big Spaniard named Alex, shoved the idiot down a set of steep steps. Another two girls simply screamed and ran away. Another woman I know was less lucky, two guys jumped into her moving cab, forcing the driver to drive to a remote location. When they realized she did not have anything of value, they took their frustration out on her face. (It may be important to note that all three women in the previous examples were blonde and alone.)

And gun violence? Ale had the adrenaline rush of having the language school she was working at robbed by thugs at gunpoint. The crooks rounded everyone into one room and demanded all the valuables. When one person only had a few pesos for the bus, the kindly thief said, “keep it.” My friend Enrique recently drove us to the movies in the borrowed (luxury) car of a friend, complete with bullet marks from when his friend’s watch was stolen at gunpoint. My friends, Pete and Cyndi, watched a person driving a fancy convertible in stop and go traffic robbed at gunpoint. The assailant simply walked up to the side of the car, put a gun to his head and asked for the victim’s wallet, which he promptly turned over. I have heard that many crooks commit crimes with guns that are not even real—but would you want to find out?

And what of the famous kidnappings down here? Did you see the Denzel Washington movie, Man on Fire? Well, sorry to say, that sort of stuff really happens too. Kidnapping is a major phenomenon in Mexico, Latin America and much of the third world. In one of my first nights out in Mexico City I went to a trendy nightclub called “Cibeles.” It was filled with young, rich and attractive Mexicans. It reminded me very much of the pretentious vibe I have found in some Manhattan bars, filled with yuppie up-and-comers. While there, I started chatting with one guy who told me his kidnapping story.

He was in his dorm in his private high school when three masked guys burst in, tied, gagged and blindfolded him before throwing him in the trunk of the car and taking him to a secret location. He was there for several days while the negotiations for the ransom were made. In the meantime, the kidnappers cruelly joked with him that his parents had refused to pay and that they would be left with no choice but to kill him. After three days he was dumped by the side of the highway, still bound, blindfolded and gagged, where he lay for two hours before the police arrived. While he lay there, people drove by an obvious boy in distress and no one stopped. Getting involved in such matters can bring unwanted trouble to you or your family. (When a friend of mine was being chased by a mugger in broad daylight, she ran for help to the juice stand where she bought a juice every morning, only to have the owner shrug his shoulders and step away from the fray.) Many years later, this young man was still angry when he told me that the first question the police asked him upon untying him was “Do your parents have kidnapping insurance?” (something apparently available down here) instead of “Are you ok after being traumatized for three days and laying here on the side of the road for two hours?” Because his father was extremely rich and influential, they were able to find and arrest the kidnappers—all federal police officers.

But catching kidnappers is by far the exception to the rule. Most kidnappings go unreported, much less unsolved. Think about it—if some group of guys can manage to snatch you off of the street at their pleasure, when they tell you, “if you go to the police, or don’t pay the ransom we’ll kill you and your family,” you tend to take them at their word. They have already proven they are capable of abducting you against your will. And if the police are not directly involved (which they sometimes are) they are generally regarded as inept and inefficient. In contrast to the image of the shiny, hero cop in the U.S., the average Mexican policeman is a poor, uneducated, brown guy wearing a dingy, ill fitting uniform, driving a police car likely to have dents and missing lights. On top of that—in the event that the police manage to arrest someone—the courts are so overcrowded, inefficient and corrupt as to make convictions unlikely. Plainly stated, it’s really hard to get caught and sent to jail for doing crime here. Because of all of this, the bad guys often win the day.

For average middle class Mexicans, tourists and gringos, the kidnapping concern is generally what is called “express kidnapping,” which often occurs in a taxi. Your taxi driver takes you to an unexpected rendezvous with armed hoodlums who jump into the cab and demand you go to an ATM and take out the maximum amount available. If you are lucky, they let you go after you cough up five hundred dollars or so; or they may keep you hostage for days until your account runs dry. This happened to my neighbor’s ex-husband some fifteen years ago. As I understand it, this practice is becoming less frequent due to some long overdue government attention to the problem. But, as I mentioned above, this happened recently to a woman I know. She survived the beating, but had to cake makeup over her black eyes for weeks. The easiest way to avoid this is to call a taxi service or take a taxi from a sitio station. Both record the cab number and the location of the trip. These are safer but more expensive, of course. Too expensive for someone like me who is not rich and who uses cabs regularly. Instead, it is important that you know where you are going and have a good sense of how to get there. That way if the cabbie goes off the appropriate route you will know something is up. Another precaution you can take is avoiding the famous green VW bug cabs because there are no back doors through which to exit. Finally, you should trust your gut. If the cabbie seems creepy and you don’t feel safe, just hop out and get another one. There are plenty of them around.

Muggings, kidnappings, carjackings—rough stuff, I know. But what drives some of these people to a life of crime? The minimum wage in Mexico is 50 pesos a day—that’s less than five dollars, A DAY. So, even if you are working steadily at a legitimate job there is a chance you are making 25-30 dollars a week. This is hardly enough to raise a family properly, and a clear explanation as to why people risk their lives to come to work in the U.S. And if you are truly poor and uneducated—and God forbid, a woman—your chances of getting a job are slim. Every day in Mexico City, women and their toddler children lie in the filthy street in front of cars stopped at red lights, doing some lame gymnastic or clownish feat in order to get a few pesos from the drivers, who usually ignore them. Meanwhile, the poor are constantly observing the upper classes walking around in fine clothes and driving luxury cars, eating in fancy restaurants and shopping in swanky malls. (I should mention that most of these rich folks are mostly white, or light brown, while all of the very poor are dark brown and Indian. But, I’ll explore that angle further in another blog.)

I don’t know about you, but I would be quite pissed off if I were poor and brown in this country. Unlike the United States, where you can say with some sort of a straight face that even the poor get an education and have a shot at meaningful economic advancement through hard work and perseverance, the Mexican poor are basically condemned to a life of harsh poverty. Mexico’s public schools make Trenton’s public schools look like Princeton’s private schools. Mexican society is much more closed than the U.S., with a rich caste of “haves” rigging the game for their own purposes against the “have-nots.” I am honestly surprised that more poor people don’t just say “fuck it” and start grabbing whatever they can from the rich. It is actually a testament to decency of most Mexicans or the inherent goodness of human beings—or both—that criminals are not just running rampant down here robbing, killing and stealing in the name of “fairness”.

Not that there are not people advocating a reshuffling of the economic cards here. In the last presidential election the leftist candidate, Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador, an enthusiastic supporter of Hugo Chavez, barely lost the last presidential election in a hotly contested recount. He continues to stir the masses at rallies proclaiming himself as the “legitimate president of Mexico.” If he or his party ever comes to power, it is scary to think what might transpire. Their rhetoric is extreme, making frequent use of the notion of “revolución!” Several of my rich students told me their family’s bags were packed and ready for a quick exit to the United States or Europe, in case Obrador won the recount. Revolution is perhaps the one constant in Mexican history, and it continues to hover in the wings. In order for this country to move forward it is imperative that the burgeoning middle class continue to grow. Maintaining the current gap between the very rich and the very poor (the percentage of poor is currently around 60%) is a recipe for disaster—and, of course, crime.

So having said all that, is Mexico more or less dangerous than the United States? It may seem like an obvious “yes”. But let’s take one last look at a few statistics that may help illuminate the answer to this question. The crime rate has fluctuated quite a lot in the USA over the past 50 years. After reaching a peak in 1991, the violent crime rate (homicide, rape, assault, robbery) has been on a downward trajectory. Some say the decrease is a direct result of the legalization of abortions some 20 years earlier, which makes some sense to me, despite the icky implications. Whatever the reasons, it has been relatively low since then. Between 1991 and 2005, violent crime in the United States has dropped from 758 to 469 per 100,000 people. Homicides came down from 9.8 to 5.6.
Property crimes dropped from 5140 to 4130. Are those rates good or bad compared with Mexico? Well, let’s first look at some other places in the world to provide us with context. Comparing the American homicide rate per 100,000 to Canada and Europe, the United States is as much as five times more dangerous than these places, including: Germany 1.0, France 1.6, United Kingdom 1.4 and Canada 1.9. On the other hand, the U.S.A. is much safer than some other countries which have higher homicide rates including, Russia 20.15, Guatemala, 24.3, Jamaica 32.41, Venezuela 31.61, South Africa 49.60 and Colombia 61.78. Those numbers certainly make the U.S.A. look pretty good—but don’t forget that the highest figures come from countries with enormous problems, including crushing poverty, total government corruption, drug wars and rebel insurgencies. Even in America, without those sorts of extreme problems, there are cities with comparable homicide rates to the most violent countries in the world, including: Baltimore 43.5, Detroit 42.1, Washington D.C. 35.8, and Philadelphia (Philly, Baby!) 22.2.

And Mexico? Well, the Mexican homicide rate is reported at 13.04 per 100,000 people, more than double the United States. But it is obvious that the majority of these murders are related to the drug war. If you take the overwhelming U.S. demand for cocaine, marijuana, ecstasy, methamphetamine, and heroin out of the equation, I am quite certain the figure would be much lower, possibly even lower than the homicide rate in United States. Other crime statistics per 100,000 people from 2004 appear to bear this out: Mexico’s rape rate was 14.26 to America’s 43.5, auto theft in Mexico was 140 to America’s 432, robbery was 147 in Mexico to America’s 146, and aggravated assault was 187 in Mexico to America’s 310. Total crimes per 100,000 people in 2004 were 4118 in Mexico, compared to 1503 in America. These numbers seem to suggest that America has as much crime, if not more crime than Mexico. In fairness, I should point out that there are probably some questions about the reporting and maintaining of these statistics, which I suspect are much more accurate on the U.S. side, and probably reflect under reporting on the Mexican side. (Again, why report crime to a corrupt and inept police force?) What I do know for sure is that when I travel to various places in the United States of America, I usually see very nice houses without fences, bars or razor wire surrounding them. That must say something.

I will confess, when I first was out and about on the streets of the DF, I was straight-up freaking out—especially at night. My heart rate accelerated, palms grew sweaty, I was looking over my shoulder, contemplating exit strategies, eyeing up passersby with suspicion. I find that funny when I look back on it now. These days, I walk around Mexico City without any of that that kind of stress. Sure, I pay attention to what’s going on around me if I’m walking alone late at night, and I put my wallet in my front pocket with my hand on it when the subway is crowded, and I avoid poor neighborhoods with degenerate/dangerous looking people hanging around; but, I do that everywhere: Philly, NYC, London, Madrid, Rome. Honestly, I do not feel afraid to live in Mexico City. Even though I do know some people who have been victims of crime here, I also know many others who have not. The same is true to some degree of the breadth of people I know in the U.S.A. I don’t visit drug war zones and I'm not involved in the drug trade, so that immediately reduces my exposure to the worst of the violence here. I’m not a blonde woman and I don’t drive a luxury car, so I am not seen as a rich and easy target. I think if you take basic precautions wherever you are, and stay out of the high risk areas, then having crime happen to you becomes a matter of luck, or lack thereof. Crime is a part of life; it always has been. But, you can’t stay locked in your house all day and night trying to avoid it. If you do you will end up missing out on life—and even if you do stay locked at home, someone might break in and kill you anyway.

So overall, for me, living in Mexico has not been an especially unsafe experience. In some ways it may be more dangerous than the United States, but in other ways, based on crime statistics, perhaps not so much—especially if you’re not involved in the drug trade. Based on what I’ve read, what I’ve heard and what I’ve seen, I would compare living in Mexico City to living in NYC during the late 70s, when crime was peaking. Everyone who read the papers knew that crime was out there, some of it violent. Everyone knew people who had been victimized in one way or another. But it wasn’t quite exactly like the movie Escape from New York either. People still lived and worked and enjoyed their day to day lives in the Big Apple. The same is true here. On the whole, there are so many good things about living in Mexico, and in Mexico City in particular, that it makes whatever the (possible) increased risk of crime worthwhile. Crime happens, and it happens everywhere to some degree. I really think a person would be foolish to let the fear of crime serve as an excuse for not visiting this fascinating and exciting place (or any other—except maybe Bagdad). So come on down and enjoy what Mexico has to offer, you (probably) won’t get mugged or kidnapped!

Photo note: “Security" in front of ASF

Saturday, May 17, 2008

FIESTA!



Have you read books or watched movies in which Americans are looking to get away for a while to forget about their troubles, or are looking to simply go have a fantastic vacation? And where do they often go? Mexico! Where do thousands of college kids go for spring break? Mexico! Where do Flavor Flav and Brett Michaels take their final two reality show date contestants? Mexico! Why? Because Mexico is a great place to party. Mexicans love to party, and party they do, often all night long. There is a night club across the street from my apartment. (Luckily, my bedroom is in the back of the building.) It’s not uncommon for me to see young drunken twenty-somethings leaving there at 6:45 am on Friday as I am headed to work. In fact, Friday mornings are by far the best weekday for traffic since so many people are getting up late after partying on Thursday nights.

When you are in a cantina, bar or club, you’ll notice how quickly (at the drop of a sombrero?) Mexicans are ready to jump up and sing along at the top of their lungs with the music. It’s pretty cool. I never experienced, nor could imagine, playing at a bar with my band and having the entire bar singing enthusiastically along to a Radiohead, Rolling Stones, or Pink Floyd. One could argue that, Latin music, traditional and contemporary, lends itself to more sing-a-long situations, but I’ve seen them do it to all kinds of songs, slow, fast, old, new, Latin, gringo. I really believe it’s more about the culture of “fiesta” than the music itself.

Cantinas, practically on every corner of the DF are filled with happy revelers of all ages, though not usually the younger crowd. Still, it doesn’t matter; on any given Friday evening, they are packed, with old and young, rich and lower middle class. (I was going to say rich and “poor,” but they have a level of poor here that you would find difficult to comprehend. And these people are not in Cantinas on Friday nights, but rather, outside selling gum and cigarettes, washing windshields at the stoplight, helping park cars or begging.) Still, the point is, the atmosphere is rich with the sound of music and laughter, the smell of food and beer and the kinetic energy of a crowded dance floor. And it’s especially fun to watch the old people tearing up the rug. In Mexico, it is “party ‘till you drop… dead!”

I was flabbergasted last September when I attended a “Grito” in San Miguel Allende celebrating Mexican Independence from Spain. Unbridled joy. Patriotism. Elation. Revelry. Mayhem. You name it. I’ll admit there were a few moments I was concerned for our safety among the shifting and shouting crowds packed into the relatively small town plaza. It was particularly disconcerting when the gigantic fireworks carousels setup in several towers directly over the massive crowds below ignited. As they began their fiery spinning and whistling at the stroke of midnight, after the mayor’s reenactment of the original “grito” or “cry/shout” for independence, sparks reigned down and toxic (no doubt) smoke choked those nearby. The hordes, complete with both old ladies and infants, pushed and shoved to escape the dangers. Still, remarkably, the singing, shouting and flag waving continued without much interruption. I remember saying to Ale that if Mexicans put half as much energy and enthusiasm into their national problems as they do into their partying they’d be a first world nation within a week.

Christmas is another party season, which officially begins nine days before Christmas Eve. “Posada” literally means “inn” and refers to the shelter Joseph and Mary sought upon arriving in Jerusalem before the birth of Jesus. Traditionally, they include the reenactment of this search for shelter, along with songs, chants and prayers. The kids celebrate this holy occasion by beating the hell out of a piñata. Normally, different neighbors put on one of these parties on each of the nine days leading up to “Noche Buena” or Christmas Eve. However, the contemporary versions I attended here in the DF consisted mostly of eating and drinking lots of alcohol. I’m not proud to say that as much as I love to party, I just could not get to all the Posadas to which I was invited. I was simply worn out. The same sort of no-holds-barred attitude was present at New Year’s Eve last year when I watched the most amazing fireworks display I’d ever seen over Acapulco Bay from a five star restaurant up on the hill. Afterwards we went back to the condo to party until the sun came up. And get this—we then spent New Year’s day recuperating by the pool, in the sun. Nice.

As you can imagine, the Mexican partying spirit is much appreciated by me and my ASF coworkers. Our network of gringo compatriots, along with our Mexican amigos is often holding a party of some sort or another. I’ve been to many such celebrations over the past year, and thrown a few of my own. I’ve hosted several dinner parties and after hours parties here in my apartment. I’m also lucky enough to have a large rooftop patio on top of my apartment building. It would be a shame for me not to put it to use occasionally. So, last fall, my apartment/building mates and I put on a fiesta on the roof. We decorated, bought food and drinks, cranked up the grill, hired a Mariachi band and karaoke DJ, and let the good times roll. We had about 80 people up there in the crisp fall air and a good time was had by all. At least until the end of the night when a scuffle broke out between the DJ and his crew and some revelers who felt the DJ was being a little too friendly with their girlfriends. In the end we were able to resolve the situation without too much difficulty. I’d direct you to Flickr to view the photos of this fine night, but someone stole my camera! Again, probably form the DJ crew. Oh well…

This spring we decided to throw another fiesta grande up on the roof. This time the primary entertainment was a Beatles cover band called Beat Bang. I’d seen them at another rooftop party at a Posada and they were fantastic, so I knew I had to get them up on my roof at some point. They weren’t cheap—6000 pesos, or almost 600 dollars, but they are worth it. Once again, Ale and I, our roommate Scott and our neighbor James pitched in to cover the band, food and drinks. Since the rainy season had started and there was a chance of evening showers, we got some tarps and strung them up over half of the roof. My friend Will helped out during the day with the shopping and decorating and by 6 pm we were ready to go. At the time of the fall party, I had only been at the school a couple of months and still didn’t know a lot of people, so the turnout was moderate. This time, I’d gotten to know many more people, plus word of the fall party had circulated, so we expected even a greater turnout. We were right.

By the time the first set of Beatles tunes ended, the roof was well packed. The bar (our large ironing board, covered with marble slabs from an antique sideboard in the apartment, was jammed with tequila, rum, vodka, mezcal, you name it. Oh, and several bottles of Jack Daniels! (I’d had a rare moment of clarity when I included in the email invitation my proclivity for this spirit.) The garbage can filled with ice and beer was constantly being emptied and refilled. In between the first and second set of the Beat Bang band, my own ad hoc faculty group, randomly named “China’s Loyal Youth,” from a headline in the New York Times, played a couple of tunes we’d thrown together.

After the second Beat Bang set, we passed the hat for them to play a third set, and then the party shifted into another gear. At this point we were pushing 200 people up there partying, Mexican style. Many in attendance were from the local Hash Hound Harriers, the local chapter of a world-wide drinking and running club. (Yes—drinking and running, in that order—they proudly call themselves a “drinking club with a running problem.”) My roommate Scott and neighbor James are both members. The band finished the night with me, my friend Tim and others leading the crowd, by this time fully gathered around the band, concert style, in a 10 minute version of Hey Jude. It was site to behold and one of those moments that I really wished my friends and family from back home could have been here to see.

You may be wondering about how I we got away with live music on a roof with other apartments all around us. Where were the police telling us to turn down the music? That just doesn't happen here. The club I mentioned across the street plays loud music all night, Thursday-Saturday. A private school behind my building hosts occassional private parties that rock my bedroom with their dance music. In Mexico, it seems the idea of a right to peace and quiet is superceded by your god-given right to party!

It was in that spirit that I had hoped to use the band’s equipment to play dance music for an hour or two, but by the time they were done with the extra third set it was already after 2 am and they were looking to pack it up. So, when they pulled the plug and the Ipod music ended around 3, the throngs of partiers, WELL intoxicated at this point, began to make the semi-treacherous journey down the two story spiral staircase out of the building. Afterwards, I spent the evening chatting with the small pockets of stragglers, the last band left at around 5 am, and also worked on getting Scott off the roof and into bed. He was leaving on Monday to move back to England, so he’d taken this last fiesta in Mexico as an opportunity to get other-planetary hammered and annoy the guests in a variety of ways. At one point he was on all fours without a shirt on and rolling around on the dance floor. He also ingratiated himself to the crowd at by grabbing the microphone and screaming, punk-style, the lyrics to the Beatles songs (the lyrics he could remember in his drunken state of mind). I could only shake my head and laugh.

All next week at work people kept thanking me for putting together such a great night. I was glad to have been of service. The clean-up was a bitch the next day, for sure. And the entire affair had cost about 1,200 bucks, but it was well worth it. After all, this is Mexico, and it was time for a fiesta!

Related pictures of this blog can be located at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/miguelito2066/sets/72157605010614714/show/ I suggest you click the info icon in the middle of the first picture, which will bring up the witty photo captions.

Thursday, May 1, 2008

Bob Dylan's Sombrero


I saw Bob Dylan from the third row the other night. It actually didn’t suck. In fact, it was a pretty good experience, overall.

As you may know, The American School Foundation is the one of the most expensive private schools in Mexico City. More than double many others. As such, our classrooms and hallways are filled with the who’s who of the rich and famous of Mexico City. The Katie Couric of Mexico, Adele Micha, her son was in my class last semester. I’ve been told that the two young children of the Mexican Michael Bolton, Luis Miguel, attend our elementary school. The Corona family sends their kids there; the Mexican negotiator of NAFTA, his son went there. These are just the few examples I can think of off the top of my head. The front of our school is crowded all day long with chauffeurs, nannies and body guards. For vacations, my students ski in Vail and hunt big game in Africa.

As such, many ASF students have access to advance issue concert tickets. Primo stuff. One such student is a recent graduate named Rennie who remains a friend of Tom, an English teacher whom with I work. Through that channel I was given the opportunity to see Bob Dylan, in the third row of the National Auditorium.

The back story: I am not a Dylan fan. In fact, it is probably more accurate to say I am hostile to him. As with Eric “God” Clapton, I find it extremely annoying that these two guys who are generally pretty good as musical artists go, in my opinion, receive such cult like adulation. And with Dylan, despite a few good tunes and some admittedly hip lyrics, he has made a lot of poorly produced albums rife with annoying unintelligible singing. I’ve tried to figure out what all the hype is about, but I just don’t get it. I’ve seen Dylan twice already. It wasn’t on purpose. I saw him once with Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers and another time with the Grateful Dead. Both shows were similar, interspersing Dylan’s sets between the other bands’, using the other band as a surrogate back-up group. Both times I found the Dylan sets droll interruptions to otherwise enjoyable concerts. Regardless, this ticket represented generous offer from my good friend Will, and a chance to see a internationally famous musician in a Mexico City venue I had yet to visit. So, I went. Did I mention the seats were in the third row?

After starting the evening with few drinks and a bite to eat at a local Cantina (literally a brightly lit bar/restaurant where food is usually free with a minimum of drinks) at which we watched a gaggle of middle aged women line dance away their Tuesday evening at an apparent birthday party, we took the bus (2 pesos or, less than 20 friggin’ cents) to the auditorium a few miles down the road. It’s a pretty impressive place, holding about 10,000 people. There are bigger venues in town, but not as nice and with lesser sound quality. After a quick stop at the Auditorium bar for a hit of Jack Daniels, we headed into the show and took our seats. (Third row!) Dylan and the band appeared, dressed in suits that looked like the outfits worn by the members of Big Bad Voodoo Daddy in the in the movie Swingers, complete with hats. Dylan wore a particularly large rimmed cream colored number. The stage was lit in a sterile white light that changed only in intensity throughout. Dylan started off with a raucous version of Everybody Must Get Stoned that got the crowd, me included, into the show immediately. After a few more songs he shifted to the organ, where he stayed the remainder of the evening, save the encore.

One major difference between my previous experiences with Mr. Zimmerman and this night was the band. These guys were clean and tight, adding a level of sophistication to Dylan missing from much of his music with which I am familiar. The drummer, bassist and lead guitarist were first class. I spent much of my time focusing on them. If I had seen them in a bar I would be raving about them as this really cool jazzy, rockabilly band I’d stumbled upon. Strangely, they played not a bit to the crowd, simply standing (practically) still the entire time, transfixed on Dylan himself. In turn he acknowledged them not at all, singing in his own world with a closed eye look of grimaced constipation. That Dylan is not aging gracefully and of Jewish origin is no secret, but let me say that from 25 feet away, he truly looks like a crotchety Hassidic elder disguised as Bob Dylan. One weird thing I noticed, he looked like he was pulling his hair up the back of his head under his hat, sort of a reverse back to front comb over. Why one can only guess; it is not a good look.

The show was like a concert in Spanish for me. Not because it was in Mexico, but because I spent the evening listening to songs that were lyrically only 25% comprehensible to me. He wasn’t doing the straining moose call he does when trying to rock out too hard. A style he was never very good at, even before he turned sixty three. Instead he sang well within himself and the steady mid-tempo music, keeping the nasally moaning within a reasonable level and allowed the songs to breath and flow. Musically, it sounded very good. Admittedly, I didn’t know most of the songs, and I imagined them to be from recent albums I haven’t heard. But I found myself thinking more than once, “I suppose I wouldn’t mind listening to this at home.” The songs I have heard before, I recognized only faintly, because they had been so radically rearranged to fit this new smooth and fresh style. In fact, they were half-way through the closer, Blowin’ in the Wind, before I even realized what it was!

Other highlights from the show include seeing the famous Lucha Libra fighter, el Hijo del Santo. He sat in the front row, silver glitter mask and all, next to his hot wife. (Or was it his mistress?—after all, he was wearing a mask!) I could see Mr. Santo very clearly, as I was sitting only two seats over and two rows back; me being in the third row and all. All around me sat lots of rich old men and women, several of them nodding off at times. There were also fewer numbers of rich young kids, making use of their primo tickets and wondering, perhaps, what all the fuss was about. Directly behind me sat a young, rich and intoxicated man (who likely did not need to be at a job the next morning—if ever) who shouted out slurred cries for the song, The Hurricane, as well as other random calls such as, “Mr. Dylan, I love your sombrero!” (I too wanted to hear The Hurricane, my favorite Dylan song, and was teased several times at the sight of a violin on stage, only to leave unsatisfied at nights end.) My friend Tom, sitting a few seats away from me, found this spoiled brat more annoying than funny since he was seated directly in front of his verbal ejaculations. One final tid-bit, sitting on the end of his organ amp sat an Oscar statue, presumably the real deal from his Oscar winning song, Things Have Changed, from the movie Wonder Boys.

About an hour into the show, I went to the bathroom for a second time. While I was out there I saw my friend Steve, another co-worker who had traveled to the show with us, and his wife Sally. They were both big Dylan fans who were regrettably watching the show from the nosebleeds. Knowing the show would soon be over, I offered Sally my ticket. She was ecstatic of course, since it was a ticket for the third row. After a few minutes it dawned on me that I had not been asked to show my ticket the first time I returned to my seat. (It is Mexico, after all.) I told Steve to follow me and we managed to walk clear down to the fourteenth row or so before finding two empty seats. It was during this time that Dylan spoke the only words of the evening, simply identifying the band members. A few minutes later, Will came back and let Steve take his seat next to Sally for the last number, something they both appreciated. After they finished the song, the band lined up like they were taking a press photo and then walked off the stage. Finito. No encore. Nada mas.

Afterwards, we headed to a local Cuban bar near my house, Bodeguita del Medio, for a nightcap and reminisced with Tom, Will and Rennie, about the concert. I got home around midnight to Ale who asked, as I crawled into bed, “How was the show?” To which I replied, “It was actually pretty cool, the music was surprisingly good, and after all, I got to see Bob Dylan from the third row!”



Sunday, April 27, 2008

How's The Food Down There?

One of the great things about living in Mexico City is definitely the food. The city is loaded with fantastic restaurants. I could get dizzy contemplating all the awesome restaurants that must be just around the corner from my apartment. Like all the great cities of the world, the DF features a variety of international cuisine: Italian, Spanish, Korean, Indian, Cuban; you name it. There are a couple of excellent French bistros I would love to share with anyone who comes down here to visit. Two places that are especially prominent in the DF are Sushi and Argentinean restaurants. There are many popular Sushi chains peppering the city. Ale and I get it delivered about once a week, usually on Sunday nights. One thing Americans will find strange is that here in Mexico, Sushi is synonymous with cream cheese. Almost all the rolls have some cream cheese in them, and many kinds are either loaded or wrapped with the stuff. You could conceivably order your rolls sin cream cheese, but changing your order from the menus here can be tricky, yielding unintended results (more on ordering in restaurants and waiters later). It’s been easier for me to simply avoid the heavy cream cheese rolls and get used to having cream cheese in much of my sushi, which I should make clear, is otherwise fantastic. The Argentinean places, of which there are many as well, feature gigantic steaks cooked on gigantic, open grills. No cream cheese here, just mouth watering, fried, meaty deliciousity.

Of course, the most prominent “international” food here is Mexican. And I suspect for many of you, what you think of as Mexican food is not, or is only slightly. Taco Bell came to Mexico just before NAFTA was passed. In a few short years they were out of business, despite the eventual, tremendous success of places like Burger King, Subway, Starbucks, Pizza Hut and Kentucky Fried Chicken. Mexicans clearly appreciate American fast food but are also fiercely proud of their cultural heritage and took no small offense to the Yankee interlopers trying to sell them sanitized versions of their own national cuisine. Don’t get me wrong, I personally like Taco Bell well enough, but it is not exactly real “Mexican” food. For starters, tacos are not made of ground beef, lettuce and tomatoes in hard fried corn tortillas in a curved shape. I have never even seen such a thing here. Tacos are small soft tortillas, corn or flour, with any number of meat, pork, chicken dishes, etc. inside. Classic tacos are found on the streets in small taco stands or places called taquerias, as are other types of “authentic” Mexican food. Perhaps the most common tacos in DF are tacos al pastor, which is pork in a special sauce that is stacked and cooked on a vertical spit of sorts, then sliced off and put into the tacos. To imagine what it looks like, think of the same set up you find at a gyro or kebab place. You might add some onions, pineapple and sauces to these tacos, but lettuce and tomato, no. And if you order it with cheese, it’s called a “gringa.”

And these taquerias and other stands can be found every half a block in this city. And it’s not just tacos they sell. You’ll find a variety of different foods that are not on the menu at Taco Bell. Perhaps the closest thing to an American taco is the sope, a thickish deep fried corn tortilla topped with refried beans, lettuce, cheese (some white stuff, not cheddar) and occasionally, tomatoes. Tacos de guisado are also a common option. These are small round corn tortillas filled with a variety of pre-cooked fillings, meats and stews and such. Very tasty. A typical morning dish are chilaquiles, a mish-mosh of tortilla chips (called totopos here) softened under a cover of eggs, chicken salsa, cream and cheese, a real messy affair. A sandwich of sorts at the street stands is called a torta, beans, mayo, chicken and other Mexican toppings (not ham and American cheese) on a thick bread roll cut in half. Or you can have tamales, pork and corn meal fillings wrapped in dried corn leaves. Not one of my favorites. Neither are nopales, chopped up cactus that kind of looks like green beans, but certainly don’t taste like them. They’re a tad bitter, if you ask me. One the other hand, barbacoa is a downright delicacy, when done correctly. This is goat meat that is slowly cooked in a pit in the ground in banana leaves overnight. The bones are used to make a broth that is served with rice and chic peas. The tender succulent meat is served in a soft corn tortilla (taco) with onions and parsley. Barbacoa is great on Sunday mornings after a Saturday night out. There’s a stand a couple blocks away from my apartment that has good barbacoa, but we usually walk a little bit further to a place that really rocks next to the pleasant Parque España. And yet another excellent option is pozole, a stewy blend of pork (or chicken) and hominy, cabbage, lettuce, lime juice, avocado and oregano, of pre-Columbian origins. Besides food, there’s also many fresh juice stands on the streets here. I can get a gigantic 20-ounce fresh squeezed orange, strawberry and banana juice for less than 2 dollars, less than 50 yards from my front door. I throw some ice and yogurt with this mixture into the blender to make killer smoothies. Really, these concoctions are unbelievably yummy.

But, without any doubt at all, my favorite Mexican food is the burrito I get every day for lunch at the little stand immediately outside the gates of my school. I barely eat any breakfast in the morning (usually a half a glass of milk or V8) so I am really ready to eat when lunch comes at 12:30. And I am especially looking forward to this burrito. It’s a 10 inch flour tortilla with shredded chicken, refried beans, rice, cheese, lettuce, tomato, and onion topped with red, green and white sauces. I have this masterpiece with a small bag of zingy “Toro” flavored Doritos (there are many Doritos flavors here I don’t think you have up north) and a diet coke for 28 pesos, which is about two and a half bucks. It’s a pretty amazing deal, considering the sandwich, coke and chips I got at the deli in Lawrence cost more than 8 dollars, and with this I get one of the best burritos I’ve ever tasted made fresh to order. I actually don’t “order” this meal; Rocío starts making it for me the minute I appear at the stand. Despite the many appetizing options I literally choose to eat the same exact burrito every day. My compulsion to eat the same meal each day is a mildly amusing oddity known to many of my co-workers. I’ve even heard others order the “Mike Burrito” (or “Miguelito Burrito” if you will!). Still, any raised eyebrows or comments about my singular devotion to my lunchtime comida are well worth it. I like my job, a lot, and still that burrito is often the highlight of my day.

And trust me; I’ve just scratched the surface here. There are many other delicious Mexican dishes readily available in the DF, and untold variations of the dishes I described above. For instance, I have encountered many versions of things that are all called “quesadillas,” even ones that are without cheese! (The word for cheese in Spanish is “queso,” of course.) As for whether real Mexican food is overly spicy or not, I have found that the majority of foods are not; it is only that it comes with accoutrements like chili peppers and salsas that can add hot and spicy element to your food if you so desire. And you may ask, what about “Montezuma’s revenge?” I personally have been lucky enough to have avoided any stomach problems since moving here. Most people who do have issues simply suffer a reaction to different bacteria here found in the water. This results in mild diarrhea and-or cramping upon there arrival. (I did have some stomach issues in Guatemala weeks before I moved to the DF and this may have prepared me for the change.) Mexicans often have to deal with the same bacteria issues when they travel to the U.S.A. (Whether legally or illegally!) Of course, sometimes when eating food on the streets here, it is certainly possible to eat some bad meat and get really sick. It’s an admitted risk, though a minimal by my estimation, and one I would argue is well worth the benefits of the all the tasty food available on the streets of Mexico.

Viva la diferencia! Viva Mexico! Viva el burrito!




Photo Note: Rocio preparing to hand over my burrito.




Sunday, April 20, 2008

How's The Weather Down There?

By far, one of my favorite things about living in the DF, Mexico (Distrito Federal) is the weather. The city is nestled in a basin at 7,200 feet surrounded by mountains and volcanoes on the spot of what originally was the Aztec city on a lake, Tenochtitlan. Because of the latitude (fairly close to the equator) and the altitude (fairly high up) the climate here is delightful. The daily temperature ranges from 66 to 78 degrees over the course of the year, with most days being somewhere in the middle. There is also very little humidity, which someone like me from New Jersey appreciates immensely. The vast majority of the days here are sunny and in the 70’s and the majority of the nights are in the 50’s. Most buildings here, including my apartment, do not have any heating or air conditioning. (Shoosh, most buildings don’t even have insulation in them.) And as much as I enjoy the spring and fall changes in the Northeast, I can't say I have gotten sick of such pleasant weather here, day after day after day. Stepping outside to sunny and pleasant environment every day can do a lot to keep your spirits high.

There is a seasonal change here that takes place about every six months. May through October is the rainy season. (November through April is the…well, I guess it’s the non-rainy season.) “Rainy season” actually sounds worse than it is. For much of this time, the days are in fact warm and sunny, culminating in an evening shower that usually lasts about an hour, if not less. Many people can be seen waiting the rain out on the streets under awnings or in a cantina before heading on their way. And there are times during these months where it rains more than an hour, but this is mostly at night. It is true that in the fall hurricane months, you will get a couple of full days of rain in a row, but this is more the exception than the rule. These patches of rain seem a small price to pay for near perfect weather the other 10 months of the year.

One of the funny things to me is the fact that many residents here do not seem to appreciate their climatic good fortune. On days that get close to 80 degrees (without humidity, mind you) they complain, “hace mucho calor!” And on days that drop only a few degrees below 70, they say, “hace mucho frio!” Of course, even eventually warm sunny days start in the mornings with temperatures in the mid to high 60's. As I ride the subway to work in (only) my cotton button down shirt, I am surrounded by many Mexicans bundled up in coats, hats and scarves. It seems a pain in the ass to have to carry around such garb on a day that you know will hit 75 later on, but that’s how they do.

Sometimes, when I mention to a local how much I love the weather here, they tell me that the weather is really good in the nearby city of Cuernavaca, “the city of eternal spring,” and also the original home of Cortes' palace. I’ve not spent any significant time there, only driving through a couple of times on my way to Acaplulco. It lies only about an hour south, and Ale, who lived there for a while, tells me its pretty much the same as the DF, only a tad warmer. I suppose that everywhere people suffer from the “grass is always greener” affliction and don’t know a good thing when they have it. As for me, I’m lovin’ the weather here!
Photo note: The Diana Fountain on Reforma in the late afternoon. Taken by my pal Nik Ball.

Thursday, February 7, 2008

Thanksgiving Break in the Yucatan

Mexico City, or DF—Distrito Federal—(like Washington D.C.) is an amazing city in many ways. There is a lot to see and do. Much more than you can manage in a year. The same is true of Mexico as a whole. That’s why I’ve tried to get out of the city and visit different places whenever I can. So far, I have visited Queretaro, San Miguel de Allende (for El Grito—more on this in another blog), Morelia (for an excellent film festival—an awesome vacation for film buffs), Acapulco, Tepoztlan, Puebla (site of the “Cinco de Mayo” battle), Parras and Torreon (to meet Ale’s parents). All these trips were great, and at some later point I may find the time and energy (and the photos) to share my experiences on this blog site. But for now, I would like to discuss the most memorable trip so far, the week I spent on the Yucatan Peninsula during the Thanksgiving break.

My Thanksgiving break sort of started on the Thursday before the holiday when I went to Pittsburgh to attend a conference for work. Though I had to spend my days in the standard uninspiring educational conference, I really enjoyed Pittsburgh, which was quite a pleasant surprise. We caught “light-up night” there, when the entire city officially turns on their Christmas lights, along with a multitude of simultaneous events and celebrations. The mood of the town is festive to the point that the entire staff of our Thai restaurant was hammered by the end of our dinner, bringing us a hot water without any tea in the pot, and other silly mistakes. The next night we took the trolley up the hill to have dinner overlooking the city—a must if you ever find yourself in Pittsburgh. Despite the good times, I was looking forward to getting home on Sunday night and preparing our trip to the Yucatan the next morning. Instead, a half an hour connecting window and a huge Atlanta airport conspired against me, and my entire group was forced to stay overnight in Atlanta and catch a flight home the next day.

Ale went ahead without me on our scheduled flight and I caught up with her late Monday night in Merida. Merida, capital of the state of Yucatan, is a large and largely colonial town located on the northern tip of the Peninsula, about 45 minutes or so from the beach. It’s often called the “white city” due to the orderly and clean conditions there. After tossing Ale about in the hotel room, (this was the longest we’d been apart since we met) we went for a walk and then took a cab to a nice Italian restaurant. Merida seemed a nice enough place, but lacked any significant personality as far as I could tell on first glance. (The fat/old American tourists we saw milling about the next day seemed quite at home.) As you can imagine, I was slightly disappointed that the town was dead by 1 pm and so we headed back to the Hotel Caribe for the night. It was sunny and warm in the morning, so after an early run we headed up to rooftop pool for a swim and some sun. Afterwards, we had lunch in the plaza in front of the hotel and went on a short shopping stroll. With the beach calling to us, we rented a car (the completely less than enthralling Nissan Tsuru—the standard cab in Mexico) and headed due east for Playa del Carmen.

The map we were using in my guide book appeared to indicate a road off the main highway to Cancun heading toward Playa del Carmen. If you think you see such a road on any map you are using while in the Yucatan—disregard this false impression or you will be stuck driving to Cancun before you’re able to travel south along the coast to Playa. While doing this, I kept thinking I saw police lights in my distant rear view mirror and kept speeding up to get out of range of this hound, only to have this dogged pursuer reappear—even after making my turn onto the southbound coastal highway. It was sometime later that I realized that the shaky mirror and tinted back window were creating an optical illusion that had me feeling tense for an hour an a half. (Duh!) We got to Playa and found our hotel, Hacienda Paradise, with little trouble. We showered up and headed out to meet our friends Tim and Monica for dinner, drinks and dancing. Tim is a buddy of mine from ASF who teaches fifth grade. Monica is his adorable Mexican girlfriend. They had been in Cancun for a couple of days already and had arrived in Playa earlier in the day. We strolled the very boardwalk-like Fifth Avenue before having drinks on the beach; then we eventually settled on (another) Italian restaurant.

Afterwards, we hit a couple of outdoor bars. I got crazy with the new camera I bought in Pittsburgh and took about 80 pictures of Ale and Monica having an animated conversation. I had this brilliant idea that I would create some sort of comic art by creating faux captions matched to the expressions. (Yeah…with all my spare time.) When the waiter brought a madras we didn’t order (or maybe Ale did but wouldn’t admit?) he threw a fit and wouldn’t take it off the bill. Since the cost of the drink and the tip were exactly the same, I told him it was one or the other. He kept it on, claiming he couldn’t take it off because they would charge him for it. When the tip was absent (I’m nothing if not a man of my word) he stormed off, “no es justo!” like a little Nancy boy. Later, he somehow managed to be able to afford another madras we didn’t order and slammed it on the table. I told him, “I didn’t want the first one and don’t want this one either.” Still, Tim and Ale, at this point well inebriated, began drinking the “free” beverage. Only later did it dawn on me to contemplate the foul unholies that were likely present in that drink. We capped the night off with some dancing on a platform on the beach. Tim, Monica and I enjoyed watching some sex-pot grab Ale and dirty dance with her, to the dismay of her goofy boyfriend.

The weather was cloudy and drizzly the next day (not the norm for that time of year) so Ale and I ended up accepting a pitch to a time share promotion in exchange for a free snorkel trip in Cozumel (the island right off the coast of Playa del Carmen.) For anyone whose done it with zero intention of buying, you know what fun it is to dash the hopes of the sales person who goes from Stepford-wife nice to insultingly disappointed—“this lifestyle isn’t for everyone, and not everyone can afford it” she said with disdain. Tim and Moni went to check out lodging in Tulum, 45 minutes south, and ended up staying for the night. Ale and I enjoyed a ridiculously copious dinner of Steak and Lobster before hitting the sack early.

After a quick swim we headed for the ferry to Cozumel. While waiting I struck up a conversation with a Gringo pitching hats and tee-shirts as fundraisers for the local fire company. I assumed he was a fireman being a relatively young and fit guy, but he said, “god no—I’m just retired here and looking for something positive to do with my time.” Fiftyish, tan, smiling and retired on the Mayan Riviera; some people are clearly operating with a thought out life-plan calibrated for optimal success and happiness. Fucker…

The snorkeling was fun, though due to intermittent clouds and rain, not as good as it could have been (and certainly not as vibrant and dynamic as the reefs I had experienced in Belize). Afterwards, we rented a scooter and spent an hour an a half zipping around the island—much of it still a nature reserve—before hitting a restaurant and then catching the ferry back to the mainland. The rains picked up on the way back and became torrential on our barefoot walk back to the hotel. Ale lucked out when we took refuge in a dress shop on Fifth Ave and she ended up with new beach attire.

Due to the rain, we ended up arriving in Tulum later than planned (10:00) and learned with some degree of panic that the hotels, or rather the cabanas,” stopped accepting new guests at 11 pm. We hurriedly settled on a very nice, but on-the-pricey-side place called Margherita Posada. If you are wondering why we didn’t make a reservation in advance, it was because we had heard stories about how hard it was to select a cabana online. Tulum is a relatively pristine stretch of beach on the southern portion of the eastern Yucatan. (Yucatan is also the name of one of the 32 Mexican states. It encompasses the northeast part of the peninsula, while Playa del Carmen and Tulum are located in the nearby state of Quintana Roo—pronounced “roh” for some unfathomable reason.) Twenty years or so ago, it consisted of a smattering of literal cabanas—Gilligan’s Island style huts—along the beach. Today, many “cabanas” are simply detached hotel rooms with air conditioning and hot running water, with a central dining area. There remain only a few on the truly rustic side, with limited electricity and shared bathrooms, but even the nicer places are small and unobtrusive compared with your standard beach town strip of blinking hotels and trinket shops. In fact, the actual town of Tulum is some 5 to 15 minutes inland, depending on how far north or south you are on the coast. So, even an average “full” cabana-hotel has only about 16 guests and an essentially empty beach front, surrounded by jungle. If you prefer Island Beach State Park to Long Beach Island, this is definitely the Mexican Riviera beach for you.

We had heard from some friends of ours who were down their earlier in the week that some cabanas were demonstrably better than others, so rather than book site unseen, we opted to go sin reservaciones. This would likely have been less of an issue if we had managed to arrive some time other than 10 pm the day before Thanksgiving. (Always using the thinking cap, this one.) After getting the no-room-at-the-inn treatment for an hour, we decided to take the pricey, but available, Margherita as the clock ticked toward the witching hour. This cabana was, in fact, a very nice place and we thoroughly enjoyed our stay there, having breakfast on the beach before laying about and swimming. It’s run by two Italian guys—I’m guessing gay due to their apparent living circumstances, but honestly, my gaydar remained unexcited during my stay—and it is also staffed by several Mexicans and three large and loveable dogs.

Not having money to blow though, we checked out the next day and went down the strip, checking out a variety of cabanas. Most were full, and the ones that were not were either too pricey or too rustic. At once place, we spoke to a guy at the front office who seemed a bit of a retard. We’d ask him a question and it would take literally seconds for him to respond in slurred speech while his eyes wandered. We wondered what his deal was and who left a whacked out dude in charge of a beach front motel.

Eventually we found a place nice place at half the cost of the Margherita in a single unit place in which the retired husband and wife lived in one room and rented out the remaining three. We took a walk down the empty beach, stumbling upon a movie being shot on the beach—not much actual action—then returned to join Tim and Monica on a trip to the Grand Cenote not too far up the road. Cenotes are underwater ground springs that sometimes have visible and accessible openings above ground. Since much of the Yucatan consists of limestone as its bedrock, the frequent jungle rains filter down into the natural underground cisterns. The Maya (being good at Math, Astronomy and calendars, but apparently not so hot at geology) thought these caverns were entrances into the spiritual underworld. For us, they were nothing sacred, just bitchin’ places to swim, and snorkel.

Which is what we did (after some hilarious and highly animated “discussion” between Tim and Monica about which way, in fact, the Grand Cenote lay). While the cenotes are cool enough on the surface, sometimes providing a place to jump off of cliffs and swim in crisp clear waters, the real thrills come from swimming in the caves beneath the water With a mask you can clearly see the amazing rock formations that make up the caves. Of course, if you have scuba gear and a light you can get really crazy swimming through the labyrinth of caves that connect the cenotes, but I understand that is some dangerous shit that you need extra cave diving certification to do. We really enjoyed it and I highly recommend this experience to anyone who ever gets a chance to visit the Yucatan. Eco-warning: don’t show up with sunscreen or hair gel to the cenote. They’re trying to keep the fragile waters clean and clear. Sadly, if you were to show up with this stuff it is unlikely that anyone would stop you from entering—enforcing rules and laws is done leisurely in Mexico (more on this in future blogs)—but I figured decent folks like you would want to avoid ruining things completely if you had a choice.

That night we met our friends Pete and Cyndi, and Matt and Amanda, along with Tim and Monica, for dinner at the Mezzanine restaurant, in part to celebrate Ale’s birthday. The Mezzanine is a high end place featuring Thai food and the only place featuring dancing on a deck on weekends. It was a good time but everyone was not up for a late night so we headed out around ten.

On the way back down the dark strip through the jungle Ale and I stopped into the Zebra cabana, which had a central bar among the cabanas. While chilling at the bar, who walks out of the darkness but the retard we had met earlier in the day! As we suspected, this was no ordinary mental case, but a guy who had suffered a traumatic brain injury in a motorcycle accident at 19 years old. He spent nine months in a coma before suffering through years in recuperative therapy, after which time his parents bought him the cabana for him to run. Surprisingly, or perhaps not, his speech actually improved with each drink, though he still mostly appeared a retard. Poor bastard. Then again, he is living in Tulum on the beach, in the sun… so maybe things have worked out for him afterall. Who knows, maybe without the accident he would be working his nuts off in the human rat race, miserable.

The next day, Ale and I lay on the beach for a bit, and then checked out of our place. When we got to the car we found a cooler of beer sitting there, left by the other couple who had been staying at the cabana. Nice people. And what a set of jugs on this broad! Ale and I went back and forth about whether they were real or fake. I suppose in the end it doesn’t matter, nice is nice. Anyway, we headed up the road to visit the Tulum ruins. These Mayan ruins are unique in that they were built right on some cliffs along the coast. It’s a pretty impressive site, no doubt, though it lacks the enormous pyramids present at Tikal or Chitzen Itza. While there we saw some nut-jobs standing at the edge of the complex facing the sea, doing Tai Chi or Yoga, or some cockamamie thing or another they learned at their local New Age community center. What made ridiculous sight even funnier was the family of (typically) fat Mexicans picnicking only two meters away, stuffing their faces with potato chips, watching and laughing at them. The modern day Mayans apparently don’t seem to share the same spiritual reverence for these sites as some gringos do.

We hit the road toward Valladolid (the road we actually should have taken from the highway on the way our there) in the hopes of checking out the ruins at Coba. When we arrived, time was running short (all these parks close at 5 pm) so we opted to skip a second ruin site and hit the nearby cenotes instead. This was a good call because these cenotes were completely underground and worth seeing. You actually went down a long stairway into a hole in the earth to get down there. I was disappointed that there was no snorkel gear but happy to see two jumping platforms along the stairs, one at about 30 feet and one at about 50. Having jumped from 30 feet at the Grand Cenote, I could not skip the higher one. And this mo-fo was high! I mean, up there. And to compound matters, it was so dark in the cave, and the waters so perfectly still, I couldn’t tell where the surface of the water lay. I spit down a couple of times hoping to get some sort of ripple to help gage my landing, but failed to get much going. Even though Ale and the one other family there couldn’t have given a shit one way or the other if I jumped or not, I knew I’d be a pussy if I backed out… so off I went. After two seconds in the air, and no sense of where the water actually was, I was having a minor heart attack, but plunged in safely into the water without crushing my legs on any rocks below.

Ale was not so lucky. She’s not much of a daredevil, but she does love me, and thus allowed me to convince her to jump off of the lower platform. She stood up there for a while, wondering what in God’s name she was doing this for, while I kept reminding her that, “it’s only water honey, it’s not going to hurt!” When she finally jumped I snapped a picture of her in midair, confirming for posterity, the worst. Having never jumped into water from such a height, she maintained a seated position upon entry, smacking her thighs and ass on the surface of the water like a lower body belly flop. When she came to the surface I yelled, “see that wasn’t so bad,” to which she whined, “that was a mistake!” As an easy bruiser, the purple body art created on her by this folly was magnificent. The cenote park soon closed. We passed the natives who worked there riding their bicycles out of the jungle on their way home. As we exchanged waves I pondered how little they were probably paid to spend their days minding these natural treasures, probably less than five dollars a day. Writing this now, I wish I had tipped them.

On the way to Valladolid, I did two things I rarely ever do: drink beer during the day and drink beer while driving a car. I got the idea from Tim who had a beer on the way up to the Grand Cenote the day before. Other than the phantom five-o that was chasing me on the way to Cancun, I had not seen much police at all on the roads, save for a couple of military run drug checkpoints, at which we were always hailed through without a second glance. I had a cooler of cold beer in the car, it was hotter ‘n hell outside and I had a long stretch of straight road through the empty jungle before we arrived in Valladolid. So I cracked open a beer and started driving. It was such a pleasant experience, sipping my beer, smokin’ my cigarette, (feeling Irish) smelling the hot jungle air. Any other traffic was practically non-existent. Ale napped and I stared at the empty road and blue sky as the miles passed by under the tires. The only other thing left to do was to read the ubiquitous signage along the roadway, advising us, ad nauseam, to “obey the signs,” “wear our seatbelts,” “don’t vandalize the signs,” “maintain our distance” and this important ditty, my personal favorite: “no deje piedras sobre el pavimento”—“don’t leave rocks on the road.” God love these Mexicans.

We rolled into Valladolid a couple of hours later and checked into the Meson del Marques, which was a recommendation from Pete and Cyndi, who had stayed in Valladolid on the way to the coast and eaten in their restaurant. Some of the rooms were 75 to 100 dollars a night, but we managed to get one of the tiny ones for 40 dollars. We had dinner in the beautiful open air courtyard at the hotel, then took a stroll around the main plaza.

It was about ten o’clock when we got out there, just in time for the town cultural arts show attended by about 30 or so of the over 60 crowd. This included a traditional ribbon dance followed by some “Mexican karaoke.” Various individuals handed over a cd of music to the dj and hopped up on stage to sing. A young girl was very good, a young man sucked ass. But the highlight for me was the old Indian farmer guy, the kind who worked like a dog every day of his life and who had probably never heard of Ricky Martin, Hilary Clinton, Babe Ruth or Neil Armstrong. He was decked out in a cowboy outfit right out of a western movie. I saw him earlier in the night and thought how silly he looked in his getup. But, when he jumped up on stage and began singing his heart out, I realized this was his performance attire. I could not believe how dramatically this old coot was belting out these “Norteno” songs. Norteno music is one of the things about Mexico which I decidedly do not like. Marichi can be cool at times, but this stuff—similar to Mariachi, but featuring the accordion and an oompa-loompa beat—is the pits. It’s more polka than anything. Apparently, it’s a style that originated in northern Mexico–from the Revolutionary corridos, or popular story songs--and the southern U.S. Where ever it came from, they should ship it back. Nonetheless, this guy sang three or four of these gems like his life depended on it, occasionally busting into an enthusiastic jig during the instrumental parts that had me splitting a side. I ran up to take some pictures. I could tell he felt like a rock star with someone taking his photo up close, but I still felt a bit guilty for taking pictures with the express purpose of laughing at them later. By 11:30 the plaza had emptied out and the town was dead as a doornail. After a long week, we hit the sack in order to get up early and visit Chitzen Itza before we headed for the airport and the DF.

Having seen Mayan ruins in Belize, Guatemala, and now Tulum, I was wondering if Chitzen Itza would be able to deliver. It did. Like Tikal, the size and scope of the site and of the individual pyramids are hard to pooh-pooh. My natural instinct, of course, is to climb these monsters, but some dim American woman who fell to her death some years ago (and whose family “naturally” attempted to sue, no doubt) made sure that climbing the pyramids was no longer allowed. More New-Agers meditated at the site, much to the chagrin of our tour guide, who was worth every peso. The ball court here is ridiculously large. In fact, it’s the largest one in existence. It extends some 545 feet long and 225 feet wide. On each side stands a huge wall. Extending out about 16 feet up on each wall is a single ring, about two feet in diameter. The Mayans would play for days in order to score one winning goal by popping a ball through one of the rings using body parts hips or lower. The best part about the game was that the captain of the winning team had the “honor” of being immediately sacrificed via heart removal. Talk about motivation to throw the game! Another point of particular interest at Chitzen Itza is actually located in the visitor’s center. It’s a large, but simple old dredge. It operates like one of those mechanical claws you maneuver to try and win a stuffed toy out of a machine on the boardwalk. Some industrious American adventurer, Edward Thompson, brought the dredge through the jungle here in 1901 in order to search the large cenote at Chitzen Itza. He wanted to locate the gold and treasure he’d heard locals say the Mayans used to throw in the centoes with young sacrificial virgins. His efforts were rewarded and he promptly took the treasure home and left the dredge behind.

Soon we were off to drop off the car and get on the plane. We gave the remaining beer in the cooler to the car rental guy who drove us to the airport. In no time at all we were circling over our crowded, smoggy city. Despite a fantastic week of fun and sun, it was great to be home.


This first blog entry is, admittedly, excessively long. I wrote it while on my Christmas break when I had the luxury of reminiscing at length and included an array of tangents and details. Hoperully, future blogs will be shorter. I recognize that few of you will read this one from start to finish. That’s fine. Read some, read none, what do I care? It’s your life.

Related pictures of this trip can be located at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/miguelito2066/sets/72157603569756196/

I suggest you click “View as Slideshow” and then click the info icon in the middle of the first picture, which will bring up some explanations/descriptions.